Women He's Undressed * * * *


Careful when you buy a ticket for this film: “I’d like see Women He’s Undressed” I said to the box office clerk.  “I’ll bet you would” the clerk said handing me a ticket.  It just sounded a bit weird.
This is a fascinating documentary on many levels.  Not only does it tell the story of Orry-Kelly but it also provides a great education on Hollywood, the studios, the stars, politics and many other influential factors on American cinema from the 1920’s through to the 1960’s.  
It shows that in the 1920’s sexuality was openly expressed, violence in film was used and then during the depression sanitization crept in.  It also shows how later perceived moral values from politics to sexuality to religion had the studios intimidated.  It’s a fascinating history lesson and worth the price of admission alone.
But that is not really what Women He’s Undressed is about. It’s about a costume designer.
It is good that director Gillian Armstrong has brought Orry-Kelly to our attention.  It is also strange that he hasn’t been celebrated before. Though to a certain degree it is understandable, as Orry-Kelly was a man who tried to live a secretive private life.  He was gay. (A gay costume designer! Who ever heard of such a thing?!).  In the 40’s  and 50’s being “out” wasn’t easy, even though most of the people he worked with were quite unbothered, a hint of homosexuality could be career damaging.
He  was born in the town of Kiama in NSW but ended up as one of the leading costume designers in Hollywood.  He did the wardrobe for Casablanca, Some Like It Hot, The Maltese Falcon,  Oklahoma. He won three Oscars.  He did costume work for over 250 films.  He was great friends with - and admired by - Barbara Stanwyck, Bette Davis, Katharine Hepburn, Ingrid Bergman, Dolores Del Rio, and many other of the screen sirens of that era.
Personally I hate the documentary strategy of actors playing the subject matter, looking at the camera and trying to mouth their words with conviction.  It fails nearly every time.  There is a bit of that in this but it is done in a manner that portrays him in a symbolic context,  rather than trying to imitate him, which makes it more effective and acceptable.
There is also quite a few talking head interviews with other costume designers and actors.  Also, well researched voice over as we see scenes from classic films to which he contributed.
As the documentary progresses I was amazed to learn of his achievements and “experiences”  - not the least being about his first “flatmate” Cary Grant in his early years in Hollywood.
Women He’s Undressed is a fine documentary well worth going to see.

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